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Old 09-26-2007, 11:19 PM
  #166
 
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bensonboo : i personally work on about 30 cars a week,70 cars go through my shop on an average week and for my customers if the wheels are off for a brake job, i rotate the tires for them.
you might not rotate the tires on your car , but most people do, #2 service besides oil changes.
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:21 PM
  #167
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ifbear: first what kind of car? and i ask because certain vehicle are notorious tire eaters. in general (1) low tire pressure
(2) lack of tire rotation -*should be rotated every 9k
(3) out of alignment
(4) shit quality tires
(5) worn shocks or macpherson struts
and after years of dealing with this all in this exact order!
Chevy Silverado 1500

rotated at 5K 10K and 15k

The tire wear has been very even. I've had several steering issues since I purchased the vehicle that seemed more like suspension issues.
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:35 PM
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ifbear: do a search on the net on the tires!! see how other people with the same tires have fared. with out getting into details, most automotive manufactures make deals with tire companys. most new vehicles don't come with the best quality of tires

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.jsp

http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp

try these sites, sometimes people respond with reveiws on the tires they have bought
-i hate to tell you, it sounds as if the tires just are not of the best quality
-lastly, on the side of the tire is a tread wear number, use this number when buying new tires, the higher the number-the longer they will wear
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
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ifbear: do a search on the net on the tires!! see how other people with the same tires have fared. with out getting into details, most automotive manufactures make deals with tire companys. most new vehicles don't come with the best quality of tires

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.jsp

http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp

try these sites, sometimes people respond with reveiws on the tires they have bought
-i hate to tell you, it sounds as if the tires just are not of the best quality
-lastly, on the side of the tire is a tread wear number, use this number when buying new tires, the higher the number-the longer they will wear

Very possibly, but 30K miles? Other reviews have gotten 50K +

I don't suppose there is anything I could say to get the dealer to do something about it.
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Old 09-27-2007, 08:48 AM
  #170
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Mandi...your thread lives!

My Jimmy's ignition has finally had it! I turn the key fully and nothing happens other than the engine rolls over but not engaging and the radio will work but nothing on the dash (no dash lights, no fuel pump, etc...) I have someone going to take a look at it in a day or two. Do you think the whole ignition will have to be replaced?

And should I get them to replace the 4-way flasher unit at the same time (if you remember my previous issues with that) since the steering column will likely have to be opened?
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:48 PM
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ifbear: "Very possibly, but 30K miles? Other reviews have gotten 50K +"

yes! but how do you drive? tires are like shoes, everyone wears them diffrently. this is where you need to take a look at your driving habits. are you an aggresive driver? do you go into turns @ 30mph, without slowing down? alot of things come into play or it was just a dud set of tires (batch of rubber compond that was too soft)
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Old 09-27-2007, 02:27 PM
  #172
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deepred: guess we'll have to wait and see. once they already have the tooling to build a blown engine swapping from a supercharger to a turbo is not too hard to do. the basic engine is still the same IE:forged pistoins, forged crankshaft, lower static compression ratio
well i want to buy a car next spring - summer, i like the cobalts (nice ride for the $)...but when i heard they not doing supercharge for 08 models, kinda killed my interest...just wishful thinking with the turbo
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Old 09-27-2007, 02:34 PM
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deepred: buy a leftover (go for the supercharger!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
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Old 09-27-2007, 09:20 PM
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I don't know about you mandi, but I was never impressed with the Cobalt's predecessor, the Cavalier. I hope the Cobalt is better in the reliability and quality control department.
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:18 AM
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noilly: cavilers are money makers for me!!! guess that tells you the kind of quality were talking about, although the cobalts are better there quality standards are still not up to the jap cars yet. the cobalt ss is a cool car though-quality aside, you get a lot of bang for your buck with this car.
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:28 AM
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Mandi...your thread lives!

My Jimmy's ignition has finally had it! I turn the key fully and nothing happens other than the engine rolls over but not engaging and the radio will work but nothing on the dash (no dash lights, no fuel pump, etc...) I have someone going to take a look at it in a day or two. Do you think the whole ignition will have to be replaced?

And should I get them to replace the 4-way flasher unit at the same time (if you remember my previous issues with that) since the steering column will likely have to be opened?

mugz: thought i was ignoring you , didn't ya? sounds as if the ignition switch has gone south, but there is also a possibilty that a fusable link has burned out @ the starter (meaning short somewhere), to get to the ignition switch -the steering column has to be dropped down-the actual ignition switch is on the upper side of the steering column -just above your feet-the lock you turn is just that- a lock, it turns gears and in turn pushes a steel rod to move the ignition switch. the turn signal switch is inside the column, just below the steering wheel. seperate labor is involved for each.
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:18 PM
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I've got a small concern about my turbo diesel Pajero. Lately when the engine is under load the turbo starts making a really noticeable whooshing/hissing sound. This only happens sometimes, not a constant thing. Any thoughts?
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Old 09-28-2007, 10:46 PM
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CHEWHACCA: sounds as if one of the air intake tubes is collapsing or one of the retainer clamps is loose or off, look at the air filter housing, then follow the air inlet tubes towards the turbo, look to see if any of the air inlets are off, if there connected-have someone accelerate the engine while watching the inlet tubes-if any of them draw inward they need to be repalced
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Old 09-28-2007, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
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mugz: thought i was ignoring you , didn't ya? sounds as if the ignition switch has gone south, but there is also a possibilty that a fusable link has burned out @ the starter (meaning short somewhere), to get to the ignition switch -the steering column has to be dropped down-the actual ignition switch is on the upper side of the steering column -just above your feet-the lock you turn is just that- a lock, it turns gears and in turn pushes a steel rod to move the ignition switch. the turn signal switch is inside the column, just below the steering wheel. seperate labor is involved for each.
Weird thing... they took it apart and found some electrical short inside the column causing all of the problems, put it back together and boom everything works like a charm. $60 total cost including tow! Mugzy is happy!!
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:18 PM
  #180
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Thats cool Mugz, 60 bucks to get anything fixed is pretty much unheard of!
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